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martedì 17 maggio 2011

Italians and prejudice

We've just had elections here in Milan, and it looks like the center-left candidate, Pisapia, might have pulled off a victory against the ubiquitous Letizia Moratti, the candidate for Berlusconi's Popolo della Libertà party. Which is a poke in the eye for Silvio, as he had declared the elections to be a test of the people's will. Apparently, the people want to poke him in the eye.



















("Houses and jobs for residents first" and "Stop Immigrants")

For the months leading up to the elections, there have been posters slapped all over town, new ones posted over the old ones every day until there were layers and layers of them, so thick that they started to peel off their base. The ones I found the most repugnant were the Lega Nord posters, and not just because I find their political ideology to be xenophobic, homophobic, and racist, though that was a big part of it. The main reason why I found the posters themselves creepy was that they never displayed the name of a candidate in the city, they always said either VOTE or some polemical statement like STOP IMMIGRANTS. At most, they said the name of Lega Nord's leader and backbone, Umberto Bossi.

Why, I wonder, don't they put up the name of their candidates? Every single other party does it, from right to left. The fact that the Lega doesn't makes them seem both completely tied to their leader, Bossi, and incredibly secretive, a society that wants to be known and unknown. They play on old fears of the Other and on campanilismo in a boldface manner that has to be seen to be believed. One poster literally says that what happened to the Native Americans will soon happen to Italians, and another says that keeping Italy unified is the equivalent of Apartheid. And they are arguably the most powerful political party in Italy.

Still, I can badmouth the Lega all I want, but I don't feel that this is just another instance of those racist Italians shunning political correctness. I see it happening from a distance also in the United States and in northern Europe, where racism seems to be creeping into even the most unlikely places. No one is immune.

I've had two conversations on the subject recently too, one with a barista at one of my favorite cafès and the other by chance with my students.

I was drinking a coffee a week ago when this chatty barista came over to talk to me. He likes me because I'm American and I speak English (even though we speak Italian, I think people like to know that if they felt brave enough they could switch to English to practice, if only they felt like it), and now he can't let me leave without starting up a conversation. This time he asked me if I were staying in Italy forevermore. I don't think so, I said. For many reasons, but also because I don't think I can find a job that will get me a work visa. He looked at me, shocked, and said, "You need a visa? But you're American?" I said, well yes, but I'm not a European citizen, so I don't get a free pass. I am extracomunitaria. He said, "Well there should be some sort of deal between the United States and Italy. You came here to work, not like a Moroccan who comes here to steal!" With that I snapped my mouth shut and stared at him, but I didn't have the courage to reply. Of course in the next five minutes my mind was flooded with things I could have said and should have said, like the fact that the average Moroccan immigrant probably works three times as much and as hard as I do, that the fact that I was white and from a rich country didn't mean I should be treated differently. But of course I didn't say these things, instead I left the cafè and haven't gone back.

Then today in my first year class, I asked the students to practice the conditional by saying what they would do if they ruled the world. For example, one boy said, if I were president, I would fight corruption. Another boy asked me to come to his desk to help him. He asked, "Come si dice mandar via la gente?"
"Send away. But send away who?"
"Lampedusa!" he replied, referring to the Italian island between Sicily and Tunisia that has been inundated with immigrants and refugees from the fighting in northern Africa.
"You can't send away a place," I said.
"Gli extracomunitari! The immigrants!"
I pulled a face of shock and offense. "Me?! You want to send away me?!"
The kids all erupted in laughter, and the boy's deskmate said, in Italian, "Don't listen to him prof! He's a racist! He's a racist!"
I stormed away in mock disgust, listening to them recounting the story to their companions, still laughing. "The prof is extracomunitaria too! He wants to send her away!"

Italians never think of me as an immigrant because I am white and blonde, and for sure I don't suffer the way other immigrants do. But I try to remind them that I am an immigrant, that immigrants come from all over and for all sorts of reasons, often just for work and money, which is what one needs nowadays for a better life. We're not some sort of mass invasion, ready to steal your jobs, rape your women, and murder your children. We're all human beings navigating a new and strange situation together, and it's not going to just evaporate.

Sorry for the seriousness. I'll get off the pedestal tomorrow.

mercoledì 17 febbraio 2010

Bars e caffè

And the autogestione continues. I went into school for about an hour today, read Faulkner, and chatted with Fabrizio about grammar (Does the sentence "The question was asked to her" sound as weird to you as it does to me?). Doing very little tends to make me all sorts of hungry, and since I couldn't justify lunch at 10:30am, I headed to the bar around the corner for a cappuccino e brioche (I miss my sfoglia crema I used to get in Florence, Milan is all northern-European-y and frequently shuns my pastry of choice).

I walked in and said ciao to the barman, who always responds, "Ciao prof!" Then I heard "Ciao Rachel!". One of my students from the first two months was there, milling about in her raincoat and backpack. Her mother works the cash register. I immediately switched to English. During a short and terrified exchange half in English, half in Italian, she explained that the vice-principal had sent her class home early for the day. Then she helped me pick out my brioche. The barman whipped out a plate for my pastry and put my sugar in my cappuccino for me. When I finished, I went to pay, and I found out that my lovely student had paid for me. It made me all warm and fuzzy inside. I thanked her profusely in English (sweetie!) and headed on my way...

Bars are the best. Good things tend to happen in them. At Brother's Bar, the first bar I went to in Milan and where I go every time I tutor at the family's house, the two old barmen always seem so delighted to see me. They always ask me, "Come stai?" and when I respond bene, "Ah si vedo che stai bene," and then make some comment about being too old. At the bar near the school, the young barman knows what I get, knows what kind of sugar I like (grezzo), and always calls me prof. Returning for a visit to Florence with friends from study abroad, the barmen at our favorite cafè (TabacchiBar per sempre) not only were delighted to see us but bought us our coffee. It's one of my favorite parts of Italy, the ritual of ordering an itty bitty coffee and standing by the barman to down it in a minute or two, making a mess of crumbs and cream, eavesdropping on conversations, making friends...

lunedì 18 gennaio 2010

And so it goes...

Classes have been going well in these two weeks since the holidays. I've been talking about high school and prom night with the kids after finding a funny little article from Newsweek:

Prom Night Isn't What You Think

They seem to really like it, or at least to be mildly amused by the sorry adventures of our valiant teenager, although he wrote the article before they were born. We begin by discussing their typical image of prom--the romance, the dresses, the perfection, the final scenes of "Twilight"--and then we read the article--disappointment, frustration, a two-year-old tux. Afterward, we talk about the contrast between the two.

In my other fifth year class, we've begun talking about the South, which I hope to follow up next week with some blues and bluegrass. Maybe some Mississippi John Hurt...



When I'm not in class, I've been seeking out a warm place to read. Of course, there are countless cafès and bars, but they are not always welcoming for a long, literary stay. I need a place like the Haymarket in Northampton or La Citè in Florence, a place with coffee and books and magarì a comfy couch, a place where I can go, curl up with a book or some work, and stay for hours. I think once I find that place I will be much happier here...